What it is and why it matters

Chenille and fritz are core‑wrapped synthetic fibres that build fast, uniform bodies with sheen and movement. From fine micro chenille to long‑fibre straggle and bold cactus/jelly styles, these synthetic fly tying materials let you set profile, translucency and sparkle in seconds, making them staples for stillwater and lure patterns.

Best uses and patterns

For trout stillwaters they’re hard to beat, but they also earn a spot on river flies as punchy thoraxes. Choose fibre length to match hook size and the amount of “leggy” movement you want.

• Blobs, Boobies, FABs: Jelly or cactus fritz for buoyant, eye‑catching bodies.
• Cats Whisker/Woolly Bugger: Medium cactus or straggle for lively, pulsing profiles.
• Crunchers/DBs: Micro fritz thorax collars that add subtle shimmer.
• Buzzers: Sparse micro chenille cheeks or hot collars without bulk.
• Damsels and lures: Straggle for trailing legs; cactus for chunky silhouettes.

What to look for when buying

Start with a couple of body sizes and two finishes: one muted, one bright. Then expand into UV and speciality textures as your patterns demand.

• Fibre length/density: Micro for small hooks; longer straggle for movement and presence.
• Core type/colour: Strong, minimal‑twist cores; clear cores keep colours translucent.
• Finish: Plain, UV, holographic or jelly for different light effects.
• Handleability: Materials that wrap flat without clumping and don’t shed fibres.
• Diameter match: Pick sizes that cover your most‑used hooks to avoid over‑bulking.

4. Foam sheets, cylinders and strips

What it is and why it matters

Closed‑cell foam is a lightweight, compressible material that delivers dependable buoyancy, takes marker/pen colour well, and resists waterlogging. As one of the most practical synthetic fly tying materials, foam lets you build high‑floating silhouettes fast—from slim indicators to chunky terrestrial bodies and buoyant lure heads.

Best uses and patterns

Foam shines whenever you need flotation, visibility or noise. It also stabilises heavy patterns, keeping them fishing at the right depth.

• Hoppers, beetles, ants: 1–2 mm sheets for crisp, durable bodies.
• Chernobyls/cicadas: Stacked strips for lift, profile and splat.
• Boobies/FABs: Pre‑formed cylinders for consistent, high‑lift heads.
• Poppers/sliders: Layered sheets or cylinders for bass, pike and salt.

What to look for when buying

Match thickness and density to hook size and water speed; darker colours silhouette, brights aid tracking. Foam plays well with UV resin and superglue when applied sparingly.

• Thickness: 1 mm for small dries; 2–3 mm for terrestrials.
• Density: Softer for squeeze/fit; firmer for long‑lasting buoyancy.
• Format: Sheets for shaping; cylinders/strips for speed and consistency.
• Surface: Smooth for clean cuts; textured for grip and markers.

5. UV resin and UV-cured coatings

What it is and why it matters

UV resin is a clear, light‑activated coating that cures in seconds under a UV/blue torch to form durable, glossy heads, wing cases and shells. Unlike two‑part epoxies, it lets you pause, position and perfect proportions, then lock them in instantly. As part of your synthetic fly tying materials toolbox, it seals threads, adds transparency and boosts longevity without adding noticeable weight.

Best uses and patterns

Think “shape, seal, shine”. UV coatings improve durability and light transmission while keeping profiles precise.

• Buzzers/chironomids: Tack‑free heads and slim, translucent bodies.
• Perdigons and nymphs: Smooth, fast‑sinking skins with hotspot options.
• Scuds/shrimps: Curved shells that won’t cloud or crack.
• Streamers/pike/salt: Protective heads and eyes on baitfish patterns.
• Flashbacks/wing cases: Clear domes that magnify colour and flash.
• Terrestrials: Spot sealing knots, posts and high‑wear tie‑ins.

What to look for when buying

Choose viscosity and finish to match the job, and ensure your light cures it cleanly.

• Viscosity: Thin for wicking coats; medium for heads/cases; thick/gel for building bodies.
• Cure performance: Designed for 365–405 nm lights; fast, tack‑free finish.
• Finish/clarity: Non‑yellowing, bubble‑resistant, polishable surface.
• Hard vs flexible: Hard for nymphs/buzzers; flex for big streamer heads.
• Packaging: Needle tips/brush caps, anti‑clog nozzles, stable bottles.
• Safety: Low odour/low‑VOC preferred; use ventilation and eye protection.

6. Mylar tubing and diamond braid

What it is and why it matters

Mylar tubing is a woven metallic/pearl sleeve that expands over a hook shank or core to give instant, scaly bodies with minimal bulk. Diamond braid is a flat, sparkly braid that wraps like floss but adds depth and segmentation. Both are dependable synthetic fly tying materials for fast, durable, light‑grabbing bodies and heads.

Best uses and patterns

These materials excel anywhere you want a bright, fishy silhouette with quick, repeatable proportions.

• Baitfish/fry bodies: Pearl tubing for translucent, scale‑like minnows.
• Shrimp/sandeels: Slim, abrasion‑resistant bodies for salt and estuaries.
• Streamers/tube heads: Clean, glossy heads that accept eyes neatly.
• Nymph butts/cheeks: Diamond braid hotspots without bulk or fuss.

What to look for when buying

Match diameter, finish and core style to hook size and target species.

• Diameter/expandability: Small/medium/large to sleeve over shanks or cores.
• Finish: Pearl, opal, holographic for scale effects and visibility.
• Core type: Hollow/clear core for translucency; woven density for durability.
• Hand/handleability: Braid that lays flat; tubing that doesn’t fray excessively.
• Salt safety: Colourfast coatings and corrosion‑proof materials for coastal use.
• Sealing: Ends that accept heat/UV resin to lock fibres cleanly.

7. Synthetic hair fibres (Predator Fibres, craft fur, SF blends)

What it is and why it matters

Synthetic hair fibres cover long, straight or slightly crinkled strands (EP‑style), soft‑tapered pile on a fabric base (craft fur), and pre‑mixed fibre/flash combinations (SF blends). They shed water, resist fouling, and keep a clean baitfish silhouette. As versatile synthetic fly tying materials, they deliver translucency, colour control and durability for streamers from trout fry to pike and saltwater sandeels.

Best uses and patterns

These fibres build mobile, castable wings that hold shape yet pulse on the strip. Think sparse, layered profiles that track straight and recover after fish.

• Baitfish and sandeels: Layered EP‑style wings with subtle pearl/UV.
• Clousers/Deceivers: Craft fur or blends for taper; add flash for a lateral line.
• Pike/musky streamers: Long fibres and SF blends for bulk without weight.
• Sea trout/bass: Slim, translucent minnows that cast well in wind.
• Fry and roach/perch imitations: Short stacks with dark backs/light bellies.

What to look for when buying

Pick fibre type and length for target species and hook size, then fine‑tune taper and sheen.

• Fibre length/taper: Short (3–5") for trout; long (8–12"+) for pike/salt.
• Stiffness/crinkle: Straighter for clean profiles; light crinkle for body and shimmer.
• Translucency/flash: Plain for clear water; SF‑style blends for built‑in lateral lines.
• Craft fur quality: Long guard hair, dense underfur, minimal matting on the patch.
• Colourfast/salt‑safe: Coatings that won’t bleed; materials that rinse and dry well.
• Ease of tying: Fibres that stack, reverse‑tie and trim cleanly; bond well with UV resin.

8. Rubber and Silicone legs

What it is and why it matters

Rubber and silicone legs are supple, elastic strands that add lifelike kick, pulse and vibration to flies with minimal bulk. Silicone is typically more UV‑ and ozone‑resistant, stays colour‑true longer and resists sticking, while natural rubber can feel extra “lively” but may perish over time. As simple, high‑impact synthetic fly tying materials, legs turn static patterns into movement‑led triggers—especially in choppy water or low light.

Best uses and patterns

Legs excel whenever fish key on motion or silhouette. A couple of strands can transform a basic body, and barred/printed finishes suggest segmentation instantly.

• Terrestrials: Hoppers, beetles and daddies with kicking, barred legs for realism.
• Attractors: Chernobyl Ants and foam indicators with two‑tone legs for visibility.
• Streamers/buggers: Rubber‑leg buggers and mini‑jigs for added throb on the pause.
• Pike/bass poppers: Wide silicone legs that flare, wobble and push water.
• Salt/shrimp/crab: Barred silicone legs for lifelike feelers and walking legs.

What to look for when buying

Start with a neutral, a barred natural and a high‑viz chartreuse/fluoro, then size down for river dries and up for predators.

• Material: Silicone for durability/colourfastness; rubber for extra “lively” stretch.
• Profile/size: Micro legs for small dries; standard/wide tabs for lures and predators.
• Finish: Barred/speckled for segmentation; plain/fluoro for high contrast; UV/glow for low light.
• Stretch/recovery: Snaps back without kinking; doesn’t stick to itself.
• Temperature resistance: Remains supple in cold; won’t melt in summer heat.
• Format: Skirt tabs/strips for quick matching pairs; loose strands for fine tuning.

Final thoughts on buying synthetics online

If your bench feels crowded but your results don’t, let function drive your basket: buoyancy (foam), flash (tinsel/flash fibres), profile (chenille/fritz, mylar/diamond braid), translucency and durability (UV resin), and movement (synthetic hairs, rubber/silicone legs). Build a core kit in proven colours—olive, black, tan, white, pearl, silver/gold and a chartreuse or fluoro hotspot—then add UV/pearl accents for low light or coloured water. Match sizes and viscosities to your hooks and water speed, choose salt‑safe, colourfast finishes if you fish the coast, and use single‑colour packs for volume with mixed dispensers or hanks for range. Finally, lean on expert advice; the right tip saves more than any discount. For step‑by‑steps, colour picks and seasonal pattern updates, browse the guides on the The Essential Fly blog and stock up with confidence.